Installing the RoadRunner LS1 Realtime Emulator

Here's a pictorial walkthrough which should illustrate how easy it is to install a PCM that has been modified with a RoadRunner emulator.

The vehicle we installed into on this demonstration was a 1999-2003 LS1 Camaro. Illustration for installation in other vehicles such as Trucks and Corvettes will be added later.

Here we go!

Very few tools are needed. Just a small ratchet and two sockets, 10mm and 7mm. Maybe a razor blade to 'modify' a firewall grommet.

Here's what you'll be putting in there in place of your stock unit. It's a replacement PCM that has had its Flash memory removed in favor of the realtime emulator. Notice the weather-proof cap. You can leave that on when you're not using the cable connection for extended periods.

Here's where the cap is removed to show the connection.

Here's where you connect the multi-purpose connector (USB in this case). The USB piece has 6 feet of length, which is plenty to let it reach into the cab of the car for passenger's seat tuning sessions. You can always add an extension if you want (ca. 10 feet extra or so).

You can work with the emulator via USB whether it's installed in the vehicle or not, whether the car is powered up or not. The power from the USB bus is more than adequate to support all the emulation functions for bench work. Here you see one of your favorite software packages up and running with the RoadRunner.

OK, now to install in a vehicle. Pick which one? OK, the closest one. The red one.

Look up in there, passenger's side by the firewall. There's the PCM. This is so simple to take out that if you can't handle it, you need to close the hood right now and not work on your vehicle ever.

Remember those tools? OK, here ya go. Loosen the integral bolts on the PCM connectors. They sort of self-back-out along with the connector as you loosen them. Oh yeah, turn the car off. You can keep the battery connected though.

First the bottom one then the top one.

Now take those two hold-down bolts (10mm) out of the plastic PCM 'sheath' bracket. Don't drop em!

OK, now ease the PCM out along with the plastic holder. Notice the angle here, it only really comes out one way.

Now you've got your trusty stock PCM out and in hand. Woo-hoo!

Here's your old one and the new RoadRunner-equipped PCM side by side.

The plastic holder has been transferred over to the new piece in this picture. Two thumb-snaps to get it loose. Real easy.

Go ahead and screw on the connector. It's pretty tough to get to once installed in the car (but possible for those with small hands). Finger tight is plenty adequate.

Here's a grommet in the firewall which you can easily modify with that razor blade in the first picture on this page. Don't cut the wires, just open it up so that you can slip that USB connector through here.

See how easy that was? Now fish the USB connector through and put the grommet back into the firewall.

Go ahead and position the new PCM in place, but make sure it doesn't get hung up on the USB cable. You'll need to pull up the slack from inside the floorboard area.

See here? You'll probably need to reach in and feed the cable into the grommet a little. It will be helpful here to have a second pair of hands to tug the cable into the cab of the vehicle.

Once the majority of the slack is taken up, position the PCM in its final resting place and make sure you've got all the cable pulled through without being too tight or having excess slack.

When you're pulling up the slack, here's where you reach. It's not bad at all, so don't yank on it.

Here's the USB cable, real handy for connecting to your laptop in the car. There's actually like 4 feet or so of length, so it's plenty workable in the vehicle. Again, if you want some more length, just add a USB 2.0 Extension cable. You can go up to an extra 10 feet or so. The shorter the better for avoiding RFI interference though.

Now that everything's positioned, bolt down the plastic holder and position those connectors back on the PCM. Tighten them up, but do not use excessive force. These are fairly light duty, just get them snug. Watch for cross-threading also.

All done! Wasn't so bad, right?